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Replacing spark plugs

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538 views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  shawnb86  
#1 ·
For those that have a built car with 800+ WHP, and DO NOT RUN ALCOHOL/FLEX-FUEL, what plugs are you using, that you're happy with?

Some possible answers that I'm looking for:

OEM NGKs at stock heat rating
Same, but 1 step colder
Different brand, but stock heat rating
Different brand but 1 step colder
(anything else...)

Alexd
 
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#3 ·
Thanks...

I don't have a NGK chart. Is that identical to the OEM plug but 1 "notch" colder?

Alexd
 
#6 ·
Thank you.

I have no knowledge of what's better in the construction of a spark plug, but I would comment that among precious metals, iridium has a much, much higher melting point than Silver. Again, whether than makes any difference for us, I don't know. Iridium is also hundreds of times more expensive than Silver, when Troy Oz. are compared.

Alexd
 
#8 ·
In my experience, the iridium plug design makes for a great glowing red “hot spot” under extreme boost, that is prone to cause detonation. They are fantastic in daily driver cars, and will last forever but they don’t have a place in my high horsepower engines. Copper/silver core plugs in the correct heat range with the conventional ground strap, for me from now on.
 
#9 ·
Not arguing...
So your experience is that the shorter life for non-iridium plugs is more than offset by less possibility of detonation.

Alexd
 
#10 ·
Yes, because of the fine wire design associated with modern iridium plugs. I run non projected tip of course. A projected tĂ­p is more likely for detonation.

You know all this already, but the NGK race plug is copper core and retracted tip. And is supposed to be better at tolerating detonation without fracture of the ceramic, compared to regular duty.

I have fractured the ceramic before with STD duty fine wire, projected tip, iridium NGK plugs with devastating results. Data log showed good AFR and still the engine detonated for no obvious reason, and fractured the ceramic in 4 of 6 plugs.

The R2558E-9 is a great plug, but they are like $40 each. You could run those or something similar.

My concern is the fine wire glows like the sun.
 
#11 ·
As a tangent to this, long ago with a nitrous Camaro Z-28 I ran a type of plug made by a small private company that wasn't a true surface-gap, but had essentially 4 ground electrodes without any projections, "firing" across the ceramic. I never had any problems with these, but with GT-Rs I forgot about doing any experimenting in that way.

Have you heard of that, or something very similar?

Alexd